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This guide provides step-by-step instructions to build a KR-style GuitarĀ using a kit. Even if you have never built before, you can learn how to get started by reading this tutorial.
ThereāsĀ nothing more satisfying than playing a guitar you have put together yourself!
Project Tools and Consumables
Before we get started check the list below and ensure you haveĀ the necessary toolsĀ andĀ consumables required to complete the project
1 x Cable and hex wrench (for adjustingĀ truss rod)Ā
1 x volume knobĀ
Assorted screws and washersĀ
Safety Precautions
To complete your guitar kit safely, also ensure you have the following on hand, and a wellĀ ventilated work space to work in.Ā Ā
Protective eyewearĀ
UseĀ protective safety glassesĀ or a genuine face shield, not regular prescription, reading, orĀ sunglasses.Ā
Disposable glovesĀ
UseĀ disposable glovesĀ if applying stains or oil finishes directly to the guitar.Ā Ā
MasksĀ
Use anĀ N95 rated dust maskĀ for sanding and an R95 rated particle mask for finishing.Ā If using water based finishing products an N95 dust mask may suffice for both sanding andĀ finishing, but be sure to check the finishing suppliers recommendations first. Paint fumes areĀ dangerous.Ā
A well ventilated work areaĀ
Ensure your work space is well ventilated, especially when finishing to prevent a build up ofĀ potentially toxic fumes.Ā
What to expect when you buy a KR-style Guitar KitĀ
Making your Guitar Kit playĀ &Ā Sound GreatĀ
There are four stages to building a great kit guitar, these are:
1. Preparation and finishingĀ
The finished surface appearance of your guitar e.g.Ā staining, painting, or applying aĀ hand rubbed oil finish.Ā
2. Hardware Installation
Fitting the tuners, strap buttons, bridge, andĀ pickups.Ā
3. Connecting the electronics
Connecting the pickups toĀ the input jack, and incorporating aĀ pickup selectorĀ andĀ volume and tone potentiometers.Ā
Weāll cover each of these below, starting with preparation and finishing.Ā
1. Preparation and finishingĀ
OnceĀ unboxed, carefully inspectĀ the bodyĀ and neck under goodĀ light.Ā
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Identify problem areas, as these should be addressed early on before commencing theĀ project.
This includesĀ large dentsĀ that require filling, deep scratches thatĀ require sandingĀ andĀ glue residueĀ on the surface of the guitar that will prevent your finish from being absorbedĀ evenly.Ā
Once you have identified problem areasĀ you can begin prepĀ sanding the guitar.Ā
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Start by sanding the entire body usingĀ 180 grit sandpaperĀ
Follow that up with 240 grit paper. IfĀ you areĀ applying a stainĀ directly to theĀ raw wood sand up to 400 grit, butĀ sanding any smoother than this mayĀ begin to affect how well the stain is absorbed.Ā
Once you have completed sanding up to 240 grit, wipe a small amount of moisture on theĀ surface of the guitar. Using denatured alcohol is a good option here as it evaporates before itĀ is absorbed into the timber, but water will also raise the grain of the timber which can thenĀ be sanded flat. Generally grain will only raise once, so you can be confident by taking care ofĀ it now, you wonāt have any problems during the finishing process.Ā Ā
Dry Fitting the NeckĀ
You should also check the neck fit. Most hollow body guitars are set necks and would sometimes have a tighter neck pocket than a bolt on.Ā itās important toĀ dry fit the neck and check how well it fits the neck pocket, along with neck alignment, neckĀ angle and scale length.Ā
Insert the NeckĀ
FirstĀ push the heelĀ gently into the back of the neck pocket, then push the neck down flat.Ā Ā
This reduces the risk of chipping the thin edges of the neck pocket before the neck has beenĀ installed.Ā
Check the scale lengthĀ
You can check the location of your bridge with regardĀ to scale lengthĀ by loosely installing theĀ bridge and measuring the distance from the edge of the nut closest to the fretboard and theĀ middle of the 12th fret and then doubling that number.Ā
If your scale length appears out by a few mm, keep in mind the individual saddles can beĀ adjusted forward or back via theĀ intonation adjustmentĀ screws.Ā
Check the neck fitĀ
The neck, once inserted intoĀ the neck pocket, should have very little sideways movement. IfĀ there is a gap on either side of the neck, you may need to shim the neck by cutting smallĀ sections of scrap wood with a craft knife and gluing these to the sides of the neck pocket.Ā Otherwise smaller gaps can be filled prior to finishing using a filler.Ā
Check the neck angleĀ
RunĀ a steel rulerĀ along the fretboard and over the bridge. The steel ruler should sit just aboveĀ the saddles on the bridge when the bridge is sitting flat against the body.Ā Ā
This would probably the most exciting part as your guitar is slowly coming into life. We have prepared videos to show you exactly how the hardware is installed. That includes fitting the tuners, strap buttons, bridge, andĀ pickups. Installing the hardware on your kit is similar for all guitars so you could refer to these videos.Ā
Drill pilot holesĀ for all screws used on theĀ body and neck of the guitar.Ā Ā
The small screws used for securing yourĀ tuners for example are small, fragile andĀ easily stripped.Ā Ā
Whenever installing hardware:Ā
UseĀ masking tapeĀ on the guitar to mark the location of the hole using a pen (pencilsĀ usually donāt result in sharp lines on masking tape).Ā
Mark the location of the hole making an indentation in the wood through the masking tape using a hole punch or similar tool.Ā
Decide on the correct size drill bit (ā thickness of the screw) and mark the drill bitĀ depth using a small piece of masking tape at approximately 2/3 the depth of theĀ screw to be installed.Ā Ā
Always aim to drill your holes straight. If you have a drill press this is preferred.Ā
Use aĀ countersink drill bitĀ (or similar) to chamfer the edges of any holes in the body ofĀ the guitar, especially if painted using a solid color finish, to prevent chipping.Ā
You may want to drill less than ā depth on less dense timbers such asĀ Mahogany andĀ Basswood.Ā
If you havenāt soldered before youāre going to need aĀ soldering iron, solder, and aĀ dampĀ spongeĀ to clean the tip of your iron. Iād also recommend practicing before committing solderĀ to yourĀ electrical components.Ā
SolderingĀ
Most entry level soldering irons will do the job, andĀ your kitĀ will come with more than enoughĀ solder.Ā Ā
Be careful when soldering. Solder wonāt melt until it reaches 185°C (365°F) and solderingĀ irons get very hot, up to 392°-896° F in some cases.Ā Ā
When soldering there are two key areas to keep in mind.Ā
1. TinningĀ
Tin your soldering iron and the components you are connecting to.Ā TinningĀ refers toĀ maintaining a light coating of solder over the tip of your soldering iron and preventsĀ the iron tip from oxidizing.Ā
2. PreheatingĀ
Soldering is really about transferring heat. The lug or component you are connectingĀ to should be preheated so the solder is drawn to it rather than staying on the alreadyĀ hot iron.Ā
4. Final SetupĀ
The last stage of our project is setting up the guitar. This is an important step that makes allĀ the difference with regard toĀ playability and tone. Our final setup will consist of four keyĀ areas:Ā
Iāll provide a basic overview of each below. Also, keep in mind the guitar should beĀ tuned toĀ concert pitchĀ and checked regularly during the process to ensure the correct amount ofĀ tension is on the neck as adjustments are made.Ā Ā
You may also want to revisit aspects of your setup once you have had time to play the guitarĀ and have identified problems e.g.Ā fret buzzĀ or intonation issues.Ā
Adjusting neck reliefĀ
TheĀ ideal guitar neckĀ is one that has a small amount of inward bow or relief to provideĀ clearance for the strings when vibrating. A neck that is too straight will very likely run intoĀ problems withĀ fret buzz.Ā
You can measure theĀ straightness of the neckĀ using aĀ steel ruler. I prefer to hold down theĀ first and last fret and then tap the 12th fret lightly of the low E string. If the string is alreadyĀ sitting hard against the fret more relief is required. If sitting well above the fret, the amountĀ of relief can be reduced.Ā
To adjust the amount of relief,Ā adjust the truss rodĀ using the hey key included in yourĀ packaging. Turn counter clockwise to loosen the truss rod which will introduce more relief.Ā Turn clockwise to flatten the neck further.Ā
Remember to only make incremental changes of ā th to a ¼ turn each time and make sureĀ the guitar is tuned to concert pitch so the correct amount of tension from the strings isĀ placed on the neck. Be sure to continue to checkĀ your tuningĀ through the entire setupĀ process.Ā
Adjusting the actionĀ
Action refers to theĀ height of the stringsĀ from the fretboard of the guitar. This is usuallyĀ measured from the top of the 12th fret to the underside of the low E string.Ā
A good starting point if unsure is 2.4mm on the low E side and 1.6mm on the high E side,Ā taking into account theĀ different string gauges. Make sure the guitar is in tune beforeĀ checking and making adjustments.Ā Ā
Action is adjusted at the bridge. Taking the small alum key in your packaging, turn theĀ individual saddle postsĀ counter clockwise to lower the individual saddle posts or clockwise toĀ raise the action.Ā Ā
Intonating the DIY guitarĀ
Intonation, in essence means, is the guitar in tune with itself. You can check this by tuning toĀ standard tuningĀ and then checking the strings at the 12th fret (an octave up from the openĀ string). If the pitch is sharp you will need to lengthen the string length. If flat you will need toĀ shorten it.Ā
As mentioned earlier. YourĀ scale lengthĀ is not a precise measurement as there is someĀ compensation required for the additional mass of the heavier bass strings. This is also whyĀ mostĀ bridges on electric guitarĀ are angled away from the body of the guitar toward the bassĀ strings.Ā
To lengthen the string, turn theĀ intonation adjustmentĀ screws at the back of the saddleĀ counter clockwise. To shorten turn them clockwise. Make sure the guitar is in tune beforeĀ checking and adjusting.Ā
Adjusting pickup heightĀ
Lastly, weāll check andĀ adjust the pickup height. Much like string action, the height of yourĀ pickups is mostly subjective and will depend on what you are hearing.Ā Ā
Youāll need to match the height for both to keep the saddle balanced on the bridge.Ā
But, if unsure a good starting point is 2.4mm from the top of the magnetic pole piece to theĀ underside of the string. However, this should be measured when pressing down the last fretĀ of the guitar.Ā
To adjust the height of the pickups, adjust the mounting screws on the outside of the pickupĀ surround.Ā
Here's an awesome video you could enjoy! Follow Addicted To Gear on Youtube.
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Building this kit? Bring your questions to the community. This page is the complete build guide. If you want to ask about a specific step, show your build in progress, or pick up tips from builders who have finished theirs,...
Building this kit? Bring your questions to the community. This page is the complete build guide. If you want to ask about a specific step, show your build in progress, or pick up tips from builders who have finished theirs,...
Building this kit? Bring your questions to the community. This page is the complete build guide. If you want to ask about a specific step, show your build in progress, or pick up tips from builders who have finished theirs,...