Use an N95 rated dust mask for sanding and an R95 rated particle mask for finishing. If using water based finishing products an N95 dust mask may suffice for both sanding and finishing, but be sure to check the finishing suppliers recommendations first. Paint fumes are dangerous.
A well ventilated work area
Ensure your work space is well ventilated, especially when finishing to prevent a build up of potentially toxic fumes.
Making Your Kit Guitar Play and Sound Great
There are four stages to building a great kit guitar, these are:
1. Preparation and Finishing
The finished surface appearance of your guitar e.g. staining, painting, or applying a hand rubbed oil finish.
2. Hardware Installation
Fitting the tuners, strap buttons, bridge, and pickups.
3. Connecting the Electronics
Connecting the Piezo pickup to the input jack and bridge.
4. Final Setup
Adjusting the neck relief, action, intonation and pickup height.
We’ll cover each of these below, starting with preparation and finishing.
Step 1: Preparation & Finishing
Dry Fit The Neck First
To get started dry fit the neck first. Mock install the neck to check neck fit and align it in the pocket and ensure it’s straight and snug.
Headstock Shaping (Optional – Do This Before Finishing)
If your kit comes with a blank headstock, you can create your own custom shape.
Sketch your design on paper first, then trace it onto the headstock.
Cut the shape using a coping saw, jigsaw, or bandsaw.
Sand the edges smooth and leave at least 15mm of wood around each tuner hole
Once shaped, move on to sanding and finishing the neck.
Finishing
Before starting, it’s important to properly sand, clean, and finish your guitar body and neck.
We also recommend visiting the Acoustic Electric Guitar Kit Assembly playlist on YouTube to see the type of finishing Marty used for this project and how it turned out.
For specific techniques and finish styles, also see:
This section walks you through installing the hardware after your finish is fully cured.
Installing the Bolt-On Neck
Place the neck into the pocket and confirm a snug, centered fit.
Check scale length: Measure from the nut to 12th fret, then double that distance. This is where the center of the saddle should land (between string holes #3 and #4).
Use a steel ruler to align the saddle with the 12th fret dot inlay.
When you’re confident in the alignment, screw the neck into place using the neck plate, screws, and cushion.
Installing 6-in-line Tuners
Insert each tuner into the back of the headstock.
Add washers and bushings, then tighten nuts by hand.
Align the tuners (use a steel ruler across the top).
Mark pilot holes, pre-drill, and install screws.
Installing the Strap Buttons
Rear button goes at the center of the lower bout.
Front strap button can go on the upper horn or neck heel, based on your preference.
Mark pilot holes, drill carefully, and screw in.
Installing the Bridge
Correct bridge placement is essential when building an acoustic guitar. If it is positioned incorrectly, the guitar will not play in tune.
Measure the Rough Bridge Location and Mask the Area
Use a steel ruler to measure the distance from the nut to the 12th fret. Then double this measurement. This gives you the guitar’s scale length, which is typically about 25.5 inches.
Mark the centerline of the body and the bridge position. The bridge center should line up between string holes 3 and 4 on the bridge.
Steps:
Measure from the nut to the center of the 12th fret.
Double this distance to determine the scale length, usually around 25.5 inches.
Position the bridge so its center point, between string holes 3 and 4, aligns with this measurement.
Refer to the reference image for a visual guide.
Use the dot inlay on the neck as a vertical reference to help align the bridge with the centerline.
Push the neck firmly into the neck pocket and confirm that it fits snugly.
A video demonstration by Marty is included, showing how to measure the rough bridge location and mask the area before installing the bridge.
Prepare the Bridge Area
Once the bridge area is masked and you have a general idea of where the bridge will be positioned, measure the distance again using the same process as before. This time, make clear reference marks. Place the bridge on the body as a template, then carefully cut away the masking tape where the bridge will sit. Refer to the video below for a demonstration by Marty.
Drill the Pickup Wiring Hole (If your kit has not been pre-drilled)
If your kit has not been pre-drilled for the pickup wiring hole, drill this hole at an angle during this step.
Position the bridge in its correct location without gluing it in place. Use the bridge as a template to mark the exact location of the wiring hole. Once marked, remove the bridge and drill the hole outward from that point.
Take care not to drill too far and break through the back of the guitar body. Refer to the video below for a demonstration by Marty.
Glue the Acoustic Electric Bridge
In this video, Marty explains how to prepare the bridge area before gluing the bridge and outlines the tools you will need. Please watch carefully before proceeding with this step.
3. Installing the Electronics
Your kit features a piezo pickup, master volume, and 4-band equalizer system. The system is pre-wired and fully plug-and-play, so no soldering is required. In the video below, Marty explains how all components are connected together without the need for soldering.
Components Overview:
Piezo Pickup mounted under the saddle.
4-Band EQ Module includes Volume and EQ sliders.
Output Jack connects your guitar to an amplifier.
9V Battery Compartment powers the preamp/EQ.
How to Thread Wires Easily
In this video, Marty demonstrates a simple and effective technique for routing the input jack wire through a hollow guitar body using fishing wire (but you can use plastic coated wire too as it's more rigid). This method makes the installation easier and more controlled. The same technique can also be used to thread the pickup wire.
Wiring Diagram:
Refer to the image below or download PDF wiring diagram here: Wiring Diagram (PDF)
Installation Steps:
1. Mount the EQ module on the side of the body.
Fit the EQ module into the side cavity.
Secure with screws provided.
Do not overtighten — this can crack the finish.
2. Insert the 9V Battery
Place inside the compartment.
Test fit now to ensure easy battery access later.
3. Connect the piezo wire to the EQ input.
Thread the piezo pickup wire through the pre-drilled hole from the bridge to inside the body.
Plug it into the labeled Piezo Input Jack on the EQ module.
4. Attach the volume knob and confirm it’s wired to EQ output.
Mount the jack securely into its routed cavity.
Connect the EQ module’s output wire to the jack (already attached in most kits).
5. Test by plugging into an amp and adjusting EQ sliders.
Plug the guitar into an amp.
Lightly tap the saddle area and adjust EQ sliders.
If you hear sound, you’re good to go.
No soldering required. Plug-and-play.
EQ won’t work unless a 9V battery is installed and a cable is plugged into the output jack (activates circuit).
Installing the Equalizer Panel
Align the equalizer control panel with the routed cavity.
Carefully route all wires through as shown in the wiring diagram (covered in Section C above).
Screw in the panel using small screws supplied.
4. Final Assembly & Setup
Once your hardware and electronics are installed, it’s time to fine-tune your guitar for playability and tone. This includes adjusting the neck, string height, and intonation.
Install Your Strings
Use a fresh set of acoustic guitar strings.
Depending on the type of bridge your kit uses, this step may differ slightly. If your kit includes a bridge with pins, drill the string holes in the bridge at this stage before installing the strings. If your kit uses a pinless bridge, install the strings as usual.
Install the strings one at a time, threading them through the bridge and tuners.
Tune to concert pitch (E A D G B E) before proceeding.
Adjust the Neck Relief
You may not need to make any adjustments, but if needed:
Use the included hex key to access the truss rod at the headstock.
To add relief (loosen truss rod): turn counter-clockwise.
To flatten neck (tighten truss rod): turn clockwise.
Only adjust 1/8–1/4 turn at a time, then retune and re-check.
Hold down the first and last fret and tap around the 7th–9th fret. You should see a slight gap (~0.25mm). No gap = too flat.
Check and Adjust String Action
“Action” refers to string height above the fretboard:
Measure string height at the 12th fret using a ruler or feeler gauge.
A good starting point:
Low E (6th string): ~2.5mm
High E (1st string): ~2.0mm
If action feels too high, you can sand the bottom of the saddle slightly to lower it.
Be sure to sand evenly and test often. Removing too much will make it buzz.
Intonation Check (Acoustic)
Acoustic guitars don’t have adjustable saddles like electrics, but you can still:
Check 12th fret note vs. harmonic.
If notes are consistently sharp or flat, reposition the saddle slightly or check if it’s fully seated in the slot.
For significant intonation issues, consult a tech or luthier.
Electronics Test
Once strings are on and tuned:
Plug into an acoustic amp.
Tap on the saddle to confirm piezo pickup works.
Test the volume and all 4 EQ bands (Low, Mid, High, Presence).
Check for unwanted hum, buzz, or cutouts.
Troubleshooting
No sound output?
Check battery and cable connection. Ensure piezo is seated flat under saddle.
Strings buzzing or action too high?
Adjust truss rod or lower the saddle.
Bridge placement feels wrong?
Re-check your 12th fret measurement and centerline.
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